One thing most skincare experts agree needs to be firmly planted in the"good for you" category is oils, especially when used for oil cleansing and moisturizing. However, when I first tried the oil cleansing method (OCM) for a few months, I didn’t get the breakthrough I was hoping for. My pores actually felt more clogged, despite all the claims of it drawing out impurities. Since that first unsuccessful journey, I've actually become a fan of oils, both for cleansing and as a facial moisturizer. What changed my mind was finally discovering emulsifying oil cleansers. These foam up a bit, which makes them wash off with water more easily, so the oils aren't left sitting on your skin.
You can certainly buy these, especially from luxury brands, but I’m partial to home versions when it comes to oils. Having made my own beauty products for years now, I've learned that the most important part of making potions at home is determining which fatty acids are most compatible with your skin type before you start using them regularly. It's way easier to that if you're working with one at a time, rather than a bunch already pre-mixed.
A quick Google search will tell you the fatty acid composition of any oil, and it’s well worth the research. Simplified to the two most prominent skin related fatty acids, dry skin will always need more oleic acid (omega 9) andlinoleic acid (omega 6) while oily skin benefits most from a-linolenic acid (omega 3). Even if you choose the best suited oil, you can still screw up by not removing all of it when performing OCM. Unless you have a hot towel and in some cases use face wash after, the cumulative effect could do you in and create major skin issues like cystic acne and clogged pores.
Once you choose your oil (and do a spot test, to make sure you aren't allergic) you can do many things with it, but today we’re going to be adding a small amount of a cosmetic emulsifier to turn OCM on it’s head.

The Tools You'll Need

The Oils You'll Need

To turn those oils into a successful recipe, you'll need to:
  1. Calculate the size of your container.
  2. Make 10 percent of the recipe polysorbate 80.
  3. Make the remaining 90 percent carrier oil.
  4. Add 10-20 drops of your chosen essential oil.

How To Make Your Cleanser

1. Add essential oils to the 2oz beaker

2. Use the 5 and 10mL beakers to top with 6mL polysorbate 80

3. Fill to the 2 oz line with carrier oil.

4. Funnel into dropper bottle.

5. Enjoy!

To show you how great this stuff is at foaming up, I've pictured the oil before adding water (green) and after I splashed in some H2O (milky).
That's it! Use liberally with clean hands to massage into face to remove makeup and excess sebum. Once the water hit this oil blend, the polysorbate 80 attaches itself to water molecules and makes a milky emulsion that rinses clean. When I use this formula, my face feels so clean and mositurized, rather than greasy or sticky.
I love massaging this pleasantly scented and lush green oil into my face at night to snap out of a stressful day and transition into me time. Kicking back with a book is way easier knowing that my skin is free of all the things I don’t want on my pillow when I inevitably pass out mid chapter.
Photos: Maria Penaloza

all 9 comments
[–]valentinedouxOffline: March 25th to May 6th 5 pontos  
Most people prefer to use polysorbate 80. Some people don't see the difference between 20 and 80. I have sensitive and acne-prone skin, polysorbate makes my face bright red. I use Cromollient SCE which is suitable for sensitive skin.
Hemp seed oil needs to be refrigerated and stored in a dark container because it is very perishable. You can use 1% vitamin E or 0.25% rosemary oleoresin extract to extend its shelf life or store it in the fridge when it is not being used.
[–]ISwearImAGirl[S] 1 ponto  
polysorbate makes my face bright red
Really good to know! I have enough redness from Rosacea. Cromollient SCE it is. How much should I use? 5%? 10? 20?
Vitamin E makes me break out pretty badly, so I'll go with the rosemary oleorsin extract.
[–]valentinedouxOffline: March 25th to May 6th 1 ponto  
Between 5% to 15%. It depends on people's preference.
[–]ISwearImAGirl[S] 1 ponto  
OK. What effect does a higher concentration have compared to a lower one?
[–]valentinedouxOffline: March 25th to May 6th 1 ponto  
I am not quite sure about the effect on a higher concentration. There's no data on dermal toxicity or irritancy on their safety data sheet.
[–][deleted] 1 ponto  
Mixing in tea tree oil might help, but it's quite drying.
Test patch diluted tea tree oil first, and then try it with it in.
As for storage, keep away from moisture in a cool dark place.
[–]ISwearImAGirl[S] 1 ponto  
Don't know why I hadn't thought of TTO. I've used it before, and didn't find it drying. Then again, I only used 1-2 drops in a pump of cleanser or moisturizer.
[–][deleted] 1 ponto  
I came across this post in the SkincareAddiction subreddit the other day, it's a pretty specific mix but I thought it had a lot of helpful info and it seemed like it turned out well!
 5 pontos  
That's my post